Of Adventures and Pizza — Italy, Weeks 8-11
David Bertschinger is a KWC junior majoring in physics. He is spending the Spring 2010 semester studying in Rome and is providing regular updates to KWConnect. To see all of his entries, click here.
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The weekend after I went to Interlaken, Switzerland, another amazing adventure awaited. AIFS had planned a three-day trip to Naples, Pompeii, and Capri for us. The bus ride to Pompeii was on the short side, only three hours long. Once we got there, we toured the ancient ruins of the city that had been preserved in volcanic rock after Mt. Vesuvius’ 79 AD eruption. Seeing life on the streets of an ancient Roman city was fascinating. I recalled reading of this city and seeing Discovery Channel specials on it, but here I was.
That evening we checked into our hotel, which had an extremely scenic overview of Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius from across the bay. I went to get some food with some of the kids, and ended up having the best pizza I’ve had since coming to Italy, probably the best of my life.
On Saturday, we took a bus to Naples and then a hydrofoil ferry to the Isle de Capri. What heaven this island is! Given two bus tickets by AIFS for the day, we took a bus up to the city of Capri, enjoyed the view from there (higher than the port we docked at), and then took another bus up to Anacapri, a smaller town at a higher elevation and on the other side of the island.
From there we took a chair lift up the side of Mt. Solerno and basked in the breathtaking beauty that was found on the highest point of the island. Dozens of pictures and “oh my gosh’s” later, we descended the mountain in search of some excellent Italian pranzo (lunch).
Later, we slowly made our way down the island, and enjoyed finding the various stairs that provided shortcuts both through the woods and through the suburbs of Capri. Even the hydrofoil back was exhilarating as we literally caught air at one point during the return journey.
Sunday was another early morning, with us checking out of the hotel and heading to Naples to see a museum of artifacts, statues and paintings, some removed from Pompeii, some brought from Rome as part of the Farneze collection. Oddly enough, the Farneze’s were once a powerful ruling family of Italy, whose Rome palace has now become shops and apartments, one of which is mine.
Afterwards, we ate lunch and boarded the buses to drive back to Pompeii to climb Mt. Vesuvius. The view from the top was worth the cold hike and a splendid cap to a surreal weekend.
The next week of school consisted of midterms, which only meant that spring break had finally sprung. That Thursday I busted out of Rome, ready to city hop the rest of Italy. Early in the morning, I packed and caught a taxi to the airport for my flight to my first destination: Sicily. I had booked a hotel in Cinici, a town near the airport and close to my primary interest on the island, Terrasini. My great-grandparents had both been born there and my grandma had never gotten a chance to see the town. So I hiked there, since it was too early in the morning to check in.
Terrasini is nothing but a small coastal fishing town, but it was quiet, slow and very relaxing. I climbed around on the rocks and cliffs on the shore before finding a secluded ledge where I put my head on my backpack and took a long overdue nap by the ocean. My second day in Sicily I stayed fairly lazy. I wandered around Cinici part of the day and even ended up back in Terrasini for a few last looks. I flew back to Rome that evening and reached my apartment very late at night.
A few hours of sleep later, I was up and getting ready for my next early morning flight, this time to Milan. Stepping off the bus from the airport to the central station, I was amazed at the modernity of the city. It stood in stark contrast to the classical architecture of Italy’s other major cities. My father later informed me that this was due to the fact that Milan was bombed heavily during World War II.
I was able to check into my hotel when I arrived, so I dropped off my bag and headed toward the city center. I walked through the Galleria, a mall of designer fashions, Prada, LV, D&G, etc. However, in the center was a McDonalds.
On the other side was the impressive and magnificent Duomo of Milan. Its neo-gothic design set it apart from the mostly baroque cathedrals that dotted Italy’s towns. The interior was no less impressive, with giant columns that stretched toward Heaven itself. Later that day, I wandered over to the old fort, now an array of museums, with an expansive park behind it. My feet (and the rest of me) were tired by the evening, so I called it a night.
Today, I overslept the early train to Venice because I completely forgot about Daylight Savings Time beginning over here. I boarded a later train and found that this was truly the way to travel.
Once in Venice, I found my way the section of the island I had memorized the weekend we came here two months ago. To my surprise, the hotel I had booked was literally right next to the one we stayed at in January. I walked around the city, revisiting San Marco square and several other places I’d already seen. The weather was beautiful, but the city was crowded.
The next morning, I took the train back to Milan and wandered around there a while before my flight. I used some maps that my father had given me to find his old school buildings and apartment. I even had coffee at a coffee shop that he frequented across the street from his school.
I caught the bus to the airport and flew back to Rome. It was nice to be back in my apartment, excitedly awaiting my parents arrival on Thursday.
Of Ruins and Romans – Italia, Weeks 4-7
–Yes, this is late and very overdue. This blog update begins on Sunday, February 7th, my first full day in Rome, and concludes with this past weekend. Va bene, enjoy. –
Ah, Rome at last. Early our first morning there, the entire group met down at a ristrotheatre near our school for yet another orientation meeting. Sitting in the theater section was very cool, but everything we went over was purely bureaucratic and academic.
However, turning northwest up a main street brings you to walk straight through the ruins of the Roman Forum. I made my way through this and on to the Pantheon, which is very close to our school. What a feat of architecture! A perfectly round dome inside of which a 43 foot diameter ball could rest. I will definitely be visiting this site often. Perhaps the most amazing part is that this ancient pagan temple is now, oddly enough, a Catholic church.
My first day of “real” classes: the school weeks will all fly by quickly on the wings of boredom, as I could see on this day. I had a Big Mac for lunch, which was very tasty and reminded me greatly of home. After class, I went home and fixed dinner and then went out to hang at the Coliseum with my friends Maria and Tamara. It was so much fun just enjoying the fact that this behemoth was our backyard for the next three months.
We also visited the Spanish Steps and the Trebi Fountain. Maria and I tossed our respective coins into the fountain, ensuring our return to the Eternal City. Overheard by the fountain… Me: “I can die now.” Maria: “Me too.” Tamara: “Wait, what?!”
My first full weekend in Rome was somewhat uneventful. On Friday, I went to get dinner at a small mom-and-pop restaurant with some friends. Afterwards we walked to the church of the souls in purgatory, and saw their fascinating display of items held to be evidence of deceased souls leaving marks to prove their residence in purgatory. Most were books, aprons, and pictures with burned on handprints from where an apparition had touched an item as seen by a living person. On our way to this church, we stopped and rode a carousel. I don’t think the operator was amused as he should have been at four college students riding a kid’s ride, but he didn’t refuse our money either.
Sunday the 14th, I made my way down the magnificent St. Peter’s Basilica for Mass that afternoon. The beauty of St. Peter’s was absolutely breathtaking. From the towering columns and the ornate golden ceiling, to the multitude of statues and frescos, the entire nave was a microcosm of Christendom. The main altar was equally impressive, dominating the center of the church with its four high pillars supporting the canopy. I walked around the basilica four times before I sat down at the side altar of St. Joseph.
Vespers began at 5, and to my great pleasure, they were all chanted in Latin. Mass was celebrated by a number of deacons, priests, and bishops, with a cardinal presiding. While I could follow the Mass propers easily enough, I could only grasp singular words here and there of the Italian homily. An all-boys school choir was singing at this Mass as guests, and since they were American, all the hymns sung were familiar English ones.
The week went by quickly with classes the way it always does. On Friday, I spent the morning researching flights for spring break, putting together an itinerary. Saturday, I walked around Rome a lot and enjoyed the sights, the crowds, and lovely weather.
The following week saw too many quizzes in my classes, but, as usual, raced by due to my high anticipation of my trip to Interlaken, Switzerland, on the coming weekend.
Thursday night finally arrived and I boarded a bus for the night. We caught as much sleep as the ride allowed, but morning still came before we wanted it to. Our hostel was extremely chill, but the accommodations were cramped, as six of us were fit into a room barely made for two.
After a long day on the mountain, I found my way back to the hotel to leave again for night sledding. Imagine Mario Kart, only live action, in the dark, in the snow. Twelve of us rocketed down a mountain trail sitting on plastic sleds, using our feet stretched out in front of us to brake and steer. Afterwards, we enjoyed Swiss fondue, salad, and eggs and hash browns at a restaurant at the end of our trail. I got back to the hostel and joined the kids at the Metro in the basement of the hostel.
Saturday morning came quickly and we hit the slopes again, this time to a different mountain. I enjoyed the fresh powder and blizzard/whiteout conditions that were found at 9,000 feet, and we spent the whole day there.
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Of Canyons and Bathrooms (Italy Essay 1)
David Bertschinger is a KWC junior majoring in physics. He is spending the Spring 2010 semester studying in Rome. He will be providing regular updates to KWConnect. Click here for an aggregate page of all his posts through the semester (newest posts at the top). View a larger gallery of his photos on KWC’s Flickr channel.
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“In restless dreams I walk alone, narrow streets of cobblestone.”
Paul Simon penned these words over forty years ago in the immortal classic ‘The Sound of Silence,’ but they have resonated with me over the past weeks I’ve spent on the other side of the Atlantic. Until today, I have been walking through a dream, always expecting to walk around the corner and see a distinctly American world once again.
However, there is no America to be found. Even the McDonald placard has been replaced with McItaly. The narrow streets, alleys and tall ancient buildings box me in like an architectural canyon. I let the flat, snow-covered farmland of northern Italy remind me of Illinois as the endless bus rides ship us from destination to destination. Every new stranger’s voice takes me farther from home as they chat in a language
that is still mostly gibberish to me.
Now, walk down the cobblestone, breathe the air and see Italy from the ground up with me.
The biggest difference between Italy and the United States … isn’t. Everything is smaller here. The streets, the cars, the stores, the restaurants, even the bathrooms are all notably diminutive. The average American driver would tremble at the thought of navigating the narrow and packed lanes of traffic that spider-web through the cities of Italy.
But even our coach (private tour buses) drivers deftly maneuver amongst the Fiats and Alfa Romeos through tight corners and roundabouts. Pedestrians have to be as fearless as the drivers when crossing streets, for they have no right-of-way but what they boldly claim for themselves by stepping into the crosswalk.
Off the streets, the stores are built into the old architecture of the city and some could not even fit 10 people who have no personal space issues. Not to be alarmed — there are many comfortable sit-down restaurants, café’s and bars where standing elbow to elbow is not required. However, you will get acquainted with those you sit with, as playing “footsie”, bumping arms and tapping knee caps is unavoidable at the small tables.
Public bathrooms are generally engineered so that there is enough room for the door to open inwards and just miss the fixtures, and no more. Getting in one requires mild contortionism at times.
Although, as a future engineer and overall practical person, I cannot solidly object to this efficiency of space.
Italians take great pride in their work. The squares (piazza) in Firenze house many street merchants and outdoor markets, where shop owners set up stands to display and sell their goods. While there are many souvenirs stands, others mainly include leather goods (jackets, gloves, wallets, purses) and scarves. When you barter with any of the store owners, they always detail the products and sing their praises as fine craftsmanship. They are eager to say how many generations have been in their business and to make you appreciate their work.
The culture, history and very atmosphere of Italy are vibrant and rich, but different from anything we’re used to in America. The true sights of a country are not found at the tourist-touted landmarks, but right on the street, feet on the cobblestone, walking through the dream of seeing the world.
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