Of Canyons and Bathrooms (Italy Essay 1)
David Bertschinger is a KWC junior majoring in physics. He is spending the Spring 2010 semester studying in Rome. He will be providing regular updates to KWConnect. Click here for an aggregate page of all his posts through the semester (newest posts at the top). View a larger gallery of his photos on KWC’s Flickr channel.
__________________________________________________________________________
“In restless dreams I walk alone, narrow streets of cobblestone.”
Paul Simon penned these words over forty years ago in the immortal classic ‘The Sound of Silence,’ but they have resonated with me over the past weeks I’ve spent on the other side of the Atlantic. Until today, I have been walking through a dream, always expecting to walk around the corner and see a distinctly American world once again.
However, there is no America to be found. Even the McDonald placard has been replaced with McItaly. The narrow streets, alleys and tall ancient buildings box me in like an architectural canyon. I let the flat, snow-covered farmland of northern Italy remind me of Illinois as the endless bus rides ship us from destination to destination. Every new stranger’s voice takes me farther from home as they chat in a language
that is still mostly gibberish to me.
Now, walk down the cobblestone, breathe the air and see Italy from the ground up with me.
The biggest difference between Italy and the United States … isn’t. Everything is smaller here. The streets, the cars, the stores, the restaurants, even the bathrooms are all notably diminutive. The average American driver would tremble at the thought of navigating the narrow and packed lanes of traffic that spider-web through the cities of Italy.
But even our coach (private tour buses) drivers deftly maneuver amongst the Fiats and Alfa Romeos through tight corners and roundabouts. Pedestrians have to be as fearless as the drivers when crossing streets, for they have no right-of-way but what they boldly claim for themselves by stepping into the crosswalk.
Off the streets, the stores are built into the old architecture of the city and some could not even fit 10 people who have no personal space issues. Not to be alarmed — there are many comfortable sit-down restaurants, café’s and bars where standing elbow to elbow is not required. However, you will get acquainted with those you sit with, as playing “footsie”, bumping arms and tapping knee caps is unavoidable at the small tables.
Public bathrooms are generally engineered so that there is enough room for the door to open inwards and just miss the fixtures, and no more. Getting in one requires mild contortionism at times.
Although, as a future engineer and overall practical person, I cannot solidly object to this efficiency of space.
Italians take great pride in their work. The squares (piazza) in Firenze house many street merchants and outdoor markets, where shop owners set up stands to display and sell their goods. While there are many souvenirs stands, others mainly include leather goods (jackets, gloves, wallets, purses) and scarves. When you barter with any of the store owners, they always detail the products and sing their praises as fine craftsmanship. They are eager to say how many generations have been in their business and to make you appreciate their work.
The culture, history and very atmosphere of Italy are vibrant and rich, but different from anything we’re used to in America. The true sights of a country are not found at the tourist-touted landmarks, but right on the street, feet on the cobblestone, walking through the dream of seeing the world.
<>
